Walking around Barcelona is, many times, a travel through time. Specially, when visiting neighborhoods such as Raval, Gothic and Born: the walled Barcelona that grew to exceed its limits until well into the 19th century. Through the small streets of the old town one can find, if you look closely, traces of the life of a city that was, in the Middle Ages, an important commercial center throughout the Mediterranean.
And of all the aspects that make urban life, today we are going to focus on one that seems to remain through the history of humanity, no matter what time we talk about: prostitution.
There are many stories around this matter, which is known as “the oldest profession in the world”. And we will be telling you more stories and details in other articles. Because, as you can imagine, there is no lack of curiosities throughout so many centuries.
IN MEDIEVAL BARCELONA
Today, we will start in the Middle Ages: a time when Barcelona and its port were part of great trade routes; a time when many sailors and merchants arrived by sea. And when there are many men who come to a new port, after spending enough time on the high seas, we all know what they are looking for as soon as they set foot on land, right?
During those years, brothels will be tolerated. It is clear that prostitution was not socially accepted, but it was tolerated (it was considered a necessary minor evil) and even regulated to ensure coexistence with the rest of the social group (the first ordinances appeared in the fourteenth century).
It is known that the allowed age to exercise it ranged from 12 to 20 years old. And that the Barcelona consellers (councilors) imposed a dress code on prostituted women. Basically, they had to dress differently than the rest of the women who considered themselves “honest”. For example, wearing white with a blue belt, to be easily recognized; or not being able to wear a cape or cloak, even if it was winter and it was cold. Furthermore, they were not authorized to eat or drink in public.
When Easter came, there was a forced interruption of paid sexual services. On holy days, prostitutes had to seclude themselves in a convent, and thus avoid “tempting” any man who might wish to seek an encounter with them.
Las Ramblas and the Raval neighborhood, which was born as the periphery of Barcelona, were the places in the city where prostitution developed in all its variety of colors, without having disappeared to this day.
HOW DID THEY FIND THE BROTHELS?
But today we will tell you about the footprints that the brothels have left in the old town, and not exactly in the Raval.
Earlier we mentioned that many men who arrived at the port sought the services of a young lady. Now, we have to stop at one important detail: these men, for the most part, could not read or write. To identify, therefore, a brothel had to resort to resources that did not include the written word.
In Barcelona, to mark the place of a brothel there was a developed signal system. An example was to paint the lower part of the facade bright red, a clear sign of lust. Another detail was to write the street number in a clearly larger size than the rest of the numbers of other houses or premises.
But the element that has survived the passing of time and that we can still see in some hidden corners of the city were the “carasses”: some masks made of stone that represented the heads of demons, satyrs or medusa.
This signaling was an evolution that came after the Middle Ages, in the 17th century, more exactly after the War of the Segadors, in 1640. It was decided to place these heads in the corners to help the Castilian soldiers, who had acquired the city domain, to easily find a brothel.
FINDING THE «CARASSES»
Today, through the streets of El Born we can see some faces that have survived time and demolitions. And since we are very good, so that you do not have to go looking for them without any clues, we will tell you where they are.
The most famous and which is very easy to see is on the corner of Carrer dels Mirallers and Carrer dels Vigatans.
She was at risk of being lost forever in 1983, when the building she was in was demolished, when a Ciutat Vella rehabilitation plan was being carried out.
Luckily, the neighbors interceded and saved her: once restored it was placed again, and now we see it in the building that was built on the site where it had been all that time.
The second one is very close and has a name: Flycatcher (Papamoscas).
Right at the corner of Carrer dels Flassaders and Carrer de les Mosques, there is this “carassa” which, it is believe, indicated the location of a brothel.
It seems that this street was a dead end in those times and the brothel, it is said, was one of category.
What’s more, there is a version that tells that some of the women who work there left the profession thanks to the help of a sailor.
How is that?
Well, at that time when a ship was having a very bad time on the high seas, sailors used to ask the Virgin for protection and to save their lives.
What they promised in return was to make some woman happy. So, fulfilling his promise, it seems that this sailor “rescued” one of the young ladies who worked there.
The last of the “carasses” you can find in Born is at the Carrer de les Panses.
Walking down the Carrer de les Trompetes you have to pass an arch, and when you turn on your heels you’ll appreciate the building in front of you. On the third floor there is a half face, with a beard.
In that case, the mask would be marking the exact floor where the brothel worked, to avoid conflicts with the neighbors.
It is clear that there is no fully reliable confirmation that all these faces have belonged to a brothel.
They could also have been part of the ornamentation of the construction they were in.
But, be that as it may, they are the testimony of a past, which is always attractive to discover.
Now all you have to do is grab your map, lift your head and go on your search.
Sources:
“Historias de la historia de Barcelona” – Dani Cortijo
“Els secrets de la Rambla de Barcelona” – Ángel Ferris y Núria Fontanet
Anyone who comes to Barcelona will discover that in many buildings and public spaces (in the Born neighborhood they will also see it), the famous legend of Sant Jordi is recreated a thousand and one times: a medieval knight who kills a fierce dragon and, by doing so, rescues the princess.
Sant Jordi, or Saint George, is the patron saint of Catalonia and his legend was an essential element at the end of the 19th century, precisely in years where it seeks to recover and revalue Catalan culture and identity.
But Sant Jordi is not the only knight who undertakes the task of killing a dragon. The legend that we share with you today also tells us about the adventure of a medieval knight, brave enough to face that mythological beast.
It is true that he does not achieve exactly the same results … perhaps that is why he is less famous. But his story is still more than entertaining and even mixes with reality.
LET’S TRAVEL IN TIME TO THE XIII CENTURY.
In that medieval Barcelona there was a family of knights called Vilardell. In fact, the street in which they lived was known by their last name: Carrer d’en Vilardell. Today, that same street is called Carrer dels Cotoners and it is in the Born district, one of the most charming areas of the city of Barcelona.
The point is that, in those years, there was a dragon that attacked anyone who passed by the road that linked Barcelona to Girona: it didn’t matter if they were people or animals, the hungry dragon devoured them all.
Tired of this situation, the knight Soler de Vilardell decided to take action on the matter and prepared to undertake the great adventure: go kill a dragon.
When he was about to leave his house, he met a homeless man at the door. The man, who evidently lived in very poor condition, asked the gentleman for spare change.
Soler de Vilardell left his sword resting on the door and entered the house to look for some coins, to help the poor man.
However, when he returned to meet him, he was no longer there. But not only was the tramp missing, his own sword was also missing!
The strangest thing about the case was that instead, there was another. A sword of great mettle with a precious handle. And with a special detail: on the sheet there was an inscription that read like this:
“Espasa de virtut
brac de cavaller
pedra i drac
jo partire”
(“Sword of Virtue
knight’s arm
stone and dragon
I will split”)
With such a sword in hand, Soler felt that he could not fail. He was ready to go on his journey and kill the dragon.
Halfway there he thought it would be better to test the sword, to see if what the inscription put, was really fulfilled.
He chose a large rock on the way and, saying the magic words, he loaded it:
“Espasa de virtut
brac de cavaller
pedra i drac
jo partire”
Espada de Vilardell “La Vilardella”
The rock split in two without difficulty, and at that moment, the knight realized that he had the best sword to obtain victory. So, without hesitation, he continued his journey to find the famous dragon.
And the moment came: there was the beast, hungry and fierce. Soler de Vilardell attacked the animal, without fear. His magic sword gleamed as he gripped it with all his might and thrust it into the dragon’s neck. With a single blow he cut off his head, while saying:
“Brac de cavaller
espasa de virtut
pedra i drac
jo partire”
(“Knight’s arm / Sword of Virtue / stone and dragon / I will split ”)
Glad that he had won, he did not realize that he had not said the words in the correct order. And, while his arm was raised with the sword up, a drop of the dragon’s blood slipped down the sword blade, passing through his arm and finally reaching his heart. Only a moment passed, and the brave knight fell dead from poisoning.
The door of Sant Iu (San Ivo) of the cathedral of Barcelona and the representation of the knight Soler de Vilardell
If you are on your way through Catalonia, and you pass through Sant Celoni, you can see a mountain of stones that, people say, covers the corpse of the knight. Everyone calls it the “Roca del Drac” (Dragon’s Rock).
And the sword? It stayed in the family for a long time. Many kings and princes wanted to possess it, for being so precious and special, but the Vilardells did not want to part with it.
However, there is a curious record, in the year 1270. A sentence in the Courtesy Archive of the city nullifies a duel in which two gentlemen clashed: Bernat de Centelles and Arnau de Cabrera. The reason for the nullity? It appears that the winner had used Soler de Vilardell’s magic sword and, as everyone knew at the time, it was forbidden to use magic weapons in cavalry.
Finally, it is known that the sword passed into the hands of the Counts of Barcelona, a jewel that they inherited in the family. This is stated in the documents of those years that are preserved in the Archive of the Crown of Aragon.
Source: “Fantasmas de Barcelona” Sylvia Lagarda Mata / @cuadernodeLuis
An undeniable attraction of the city of Barcelona, especially when summer comes, are its beaches.
In the months of June, July and August, the Barceloneta neighborhood becomes a hotbed of tourists and the occasional local, seeking to cool off in the sea and a sunbathe.
The charm of the streets and the people of the neighborhood, its gastronomic offer and the fact that it is the closest gateway to the Mediterranean form the center and old town of the city, make Barceloneta and its beaches a very popular and demanded spot by those who visit Barcelona.
On days when we feel that summer is just around the corner, and we imagine ourselves in bathing suits enjoying a good dip, we thought that it would not be bad to remember what the origin of this little piece of land near the sea is.
Because it must be said clearly: Barceloneta did not exist (and I do not mean the neighborhood, but the lands where it is located today) until the fifteenth century, when the first sediments began to be deposited that, over the centuries, would give rise to this emblematic neighborhood of Barcelona.
But let’s go to the beginning, to understand it better.
FROM ISLAND TO ICONIC NEIGHBORHOOD
he city’s coastline was not what it is today, not even remotely. In the 6th century B.C. there was a bay between the Montjuïc mountain and Mount Táber, which allowed the waters to enter well into what is now Barcelona (it is believed that the sea reached where Plaça Catalunya is today).
The process will be slow, but constant: the sea will withdraw, giving rise to small islands and lagoons at the beginning, and to firm lands later. It will be in those lands where new inhabitants will settle. Layetanos (the original inhabitants), Romans and Visigoths will pass.
PBy the 13th century, Barcelona will be a medieval city with a deep relationship with the sea. A sea that came very close to the now famous church of Santa María del Mar (the same one that gives its name to Ildefons Falcones’ book, “The Cathedral of the Sea”); and the beaches, full of merchants, boatmen, fishermen and, why not also pirates and corsairs, stretched between what we now know asPla del Palau and Parc de la Ciutadella.
Pla del Palau
With the XV century comes the sea wall (one of its limits is where the plaza Antonio López is today), which will spread to the entire seafront over the years. Also, the works for a port begin. With its consolidation, the commercial activity of the beaches will be transferred to the new port life of Barcelona.
The works of the port begin at the request of King Joan II of Aragon, in 1477. In this context, it is when a breakwater is created to join the coasts of Barcelona with a sandbank, known as Maians Island. From there, the old port of Barcelona will begin to grow.
And it is with this port that a dike appears, known as “Dique del Este” or East Dike, which is key to understanding the emergence of the origins of Barceloneta. Settled on the old Maians Island, it will grow in extension over the centuries, it will contain the sands transported by the maritime cycle and the remains of sediments carried and deposited by the Besòs river.
In this way, the natural process of formation of a beach will accelerate, which will win 500 meters to the sea in the first 200 years; and they will be between 800 and 900 meters today.
The name of Maians, according to some versions, comes from the surname of a merchant who docked his ships there when he came to trade in the city.
And the truth is that before becoming the embryo of the port, that bank of sands did not have a great function. But thanks to the work of the genoese Stassi of Alexandria, the breakwater that annexed the fate of the Isle of Maians to that of Barcelona, allowed the birth of a port that would not stop growing. And unintentionally, the origin of one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the city.
So, from now on, when you walk through the area that includes the Pla del Palau and the Estació de França, remember that you walk on an island that is almost, almost forgotten.
Spain is recognized in the world for “flamenco”, bulls, “paellas” and “tapas” (and Barcelona in this last point does not escape the rule). But we know very well that this is a very limited view of reality: Spain is much richer and more diverse than just these four elements. In a country of little more than 505 thousand square kilometers, diverse traditions, languages, identities and cultures coexist that make the experience of knowing the true Spain much more interesting.
But of one of these four characteristic elements, we can say that it is a national good: “tapas”.
“Going out” or “going for tapas” is such a Spanish custom that it goes through the country in any direction. Obviously, there are differences according to the regions. You don’t have the same experience everywhere and, of course, “tapas” in Barcelona have their characteristics … but we’ll get to that.
Let’s start first by defining what a “tapa” is. Because although everyone who visits this country is looking to “eat tapas”, it often happens that they do not know for sure exactly what it is.
Well, it is very simple: the “tapa” is an aperitif that accompanies the drink, which may or may not be alcoholic. This appetizer can range from some olives, a slice of ham or a wedge of cheese to a plate of potatoes or croquettes to share.
The action of going to a bar, ordering a drink that will come with a “tapa”, leaving that bar and going to the next one to repeat with another glass and another “tapa”, and so on until you get tired (or have had too many drinks, whichever comes first), is basically “going for tapas” (“ir de tapas” in spanish).
A custom that is deeply rooted and that many locals enjoy with friends or family. It is also a good way to meet people and eat out without spending too much.
WHY THE NAME “TAPA”?
To trace the origin of “tapas” and its name, you have to travel back in time. But how much do you have to go back? That is not so clear, because the origin has so many versions that we can locate it both in the thirteenth century, as well as in the sixteenth or nineteenth centuries. And the reality is that the appearance of the word “tapa” in its culinary sense in the RAE (Real Academia Española) Dictionary was only during the 20th century.
The modern concept of “tapas” is likely to have been born out of food shortages after the Spanish Civil War, but that does not deny that they have been part of the gastronomic history of these lands throughout the centuries, long before the nineteen hundreds.
Through the oral tradition we have received different stories that tell us about the birth of the “tapa” and that are already part of popular culture.
The first takes place in the middle of the 13th century. The king of Castile, Alfonso X el Sabio (no, he was not an X-Men), had an ailment that had to be treated with sips of wine (it sounds much better than taking pills, doesn’t it?). The point is that, to avoid the effects of alcohol, the king took small bites accompanying the drink. The treatment had positive results and, having recovered, Alfonso X arranged for wine to be served with a small portion of food in all the taverns of his kingdom. A portion that helped “cover” (in spanish “to cover” is “tapar”) the effects of wine on consumers.
ANOTHER VERSION OF THE BIRTH OF THE “TAPA”
Version number two: now it is the turn of the Spanish Catholic Kings, the famous Fernando de Aragón and Isabel de Castile.
In times of their reigns, a recurring problem was that of the cart drivers who collided or generated a variety of incidents at the exit of the taverns for having drunk a little too much. As a measure to avoid these nuisances, the tavern keepers were forced to serve a “tapa” with wine or beer. Why the name? Because that small portion of cheese, ham or whatever should be served on a small plate that covered the top of the glass. The client had to eat the “tapa ” first, and then take the lid off his glass and drink its contents, without having an empty stomach.
THESE THINGS ALWAYS COME IN THREES
The following version is attributed, with some variations, to two kings separated by almost four centuries. Both take place in Cádiz and relate very similar situations.
The oldest story is played, again, by Fernando de Aragón. On his journey, he stopped with Queen Isabel at a hostel. There was a lot of wind that day, “east wind”, and the king asked that his cup be covered with a slice of some sausage so that the sand did not enter his glass. The tavern keeper covered it with cheese and, handing it to the king, said: “Here is your “tapa”, Your Majesty.” Voilá! The “tapa” was created.
However, another story tells something very similar but with King Alfonso XIII, at the end of the 19th century. The stage is again, Cádiz. It seems that the king wanted to have a sherry wine and stopped with his entourage at a “meson” (some version says that the “meson” still exists and is the “Ventorrillo del Chato”). The winds from Cádiz made an appearance again, but this time it was the tavern keeper who had, all by himself, the great idea of covering the glass to prevent sand or dust from entering into it. He used a slice of ham and delivered the “covered” drink to the king. Alfonso XIII liked the idea so much that he ate the “cover” or “tapa”, and repeated the request.
All of these stories are legends. But all agree that the “tapa” arises as a need to cover the drink or that it is an aid to alcohol consumption. The most curious thing is that in all of them, the kings are the protagonists and those who validate their existence.
ENOUGH LEGENDS
The reality is that already in the 18th century there are records of the use of stale bread or small plates with food to cover the glasses. And most likely, this practice had to do with a kind of “hygiene”: doing so protected the drink from dust or insects.
Another practical origin of the cover has to do with the interests of the tavern keepers. By putting a salty snack next to the drink, the customer would surely have another drink to quench their thirst.
Whatever birth, so difficult to trace in time, today the “tapa” is a sign of identity.
Of those first slices of sausages or cheeses, today we can also enjoy hot tapas that include omelets (the famous “tortilla”), croquettes or squid “a la romana”.
And they admit any setting: from smaller or traditional taverns or bars, through haute cuisine to banquets of the Spanish Court.
If you are in Spain, tapas is almost an obligation. A delicious obligation.
OUT FOR “TAPAS” IN BARCELONA
In some areas, such as Almería or Granada, the “tapa” is free. When ordering your drink, they always put you some “tapas” with it, to taste. You only pay for the drink and, we could say, you eat for free!
But here in Barcelona (and for that matter, in Catalonia), this is not the rule for “tapas”. There are very few places where this occurs. In general, you go to a bar, ask for your drink and some tapas to share, which has its price, of course.
And another detail. In Madrid, for example, the ritual of “going for tapas” is carried out to the letter: a bar, drink and “tapas”; then another bar, with its respective drink and its “tapa” … and so on until the bars are closed … or the money gone … or the friends who invite when the money runs out.
But for Barcelona, this is not so exact. When we meet friends to eat “tapas”, we usually go to a bar or tavern that we like, and right there we drink and eat everything we want. It could be said that it is a little more “sedentary”: the itinerant life of “tapas” is lost a bit.
Touring Spain “tapeando” can be a very rewarding experience. In each corner of this country you can discover a different way of “ir de tapas”, but it is also the best excuse to get to know its people, its culture, the products of its land, enjoying incredible flavors. And always, at a very good price. So, shall we go for “tapas”?
Winter is usually the low season for Barcelona (but not for calçots!).You can feel it in its streets and especially on its beaches. We know that we all like to travel in the summer, when it’s hot, especially if our destination is on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. In those days, Barcelona overflows with people of all nationalities, speaking all possible languages, filling every corner of the city.
But from November the landscape changes, and so does Barna’s rhythm. The city feels more “local” and, although it’s beginning to get colder, it is a pleasure to get lost in the streets of this city that always has something to offer to those who want to know it.
For those winter adventurers, there is a gastronomic surprise that only, and I emphasize ONLY can be enjoyed when it is cold. A very Catalan tradition, which has become a ritual and that you must try if you are in Barcelona: the calçots!
From November to the end of April we are lucky to be able to gobble down a good “calçotada”. The ideal plan: get out of Barcelona, and in one of the typical farmhouses, called “masias”, found throughout Catalonia, savor this delicacy. You will find that these places are full of locals that usually share this feast with friends and family; and as it is full, it’s always good to book in advance because demand is high, especially on weekends.
NOW WHAT IS A CALÇOT?
It is a type of sweet onion, with a little bulb. It has an elongated shape and this is due to the peculiar form of cultivation that is used to obtain it.
It all starts in late fall and early winter, when the seed is planted. The variety that is most popular is the “large Lérida onion”.
When June arrives, the cultivation will be finished. Result: a white onion. Hence, the next step is to remove it from the soil and let its leaves and roots dry. What we will have is the bulb. And it is from these bulbs that the calçots will be born, that we can enjoy in almost all the restaurants in Barcelona. Or at home, of course.
Therefore, the bulb is planted between August and October and allowed to grow. When the new shoots are obtained, it is time to apply the technique that gives them their name: they are “wedged” (in spanish the word is “calza”; in catalan “calça”). What does this mean?. Well, it’s very simple. Soil is placed around the base to whiten those outbreaks. This is repeated about three or four times, with the aim of lengthening the white part of the onion, until it reaches about 15 or 20 centimeters long. For each bulb you can get between 4 and 12 calçots.
Harvesting is fast and occurs between January and March, approximately.
AN BUMPY START
One of the most widespread versions of the origin of “calçot” as food, takes place in the 19th century. It is said that a peasant from Valls, in the province of Tarragona, named Xat de Benaiges put the onions on the grill, but they burned. Instead of throwing them away, he discovered that by removing the charred exterior, a tender and very tasty delicacy was hidden inside.
TODAY, EATING CALÇOTS IS A WONDERFUL RITUAL.
The menu of a “calçotada”, as God commands, includes the “calçots” themselves, as the fist course (it could not be otherwise). They are cooked in the living flame, made with vine branch wood.
They arrive at the table served on tiles and accompanied by two sauces: the “salvitxada” and the “romesco” sauce. They are often confused because they share ingredients, such as toast bread, almonds, oil, or garlic. Anyway, both are incredible and are the perfect accompaniment.
Now, let’s eat! And here neither knives nor forks are worth. Hands are our best allies. You have to remove all the burned layer that covers the “calçot”, then dip it in the sauce, lift it over your head, open your mouth … and be happy. It is logical that, with such a technique, a lot of sauce ends up on our bibs.
For this reason, a fundamental element, which they will give you in any restaurant you go to eat, is a giant “bib”: it protects our clothes and allows us to be free to eat without worries.
Once the first part is finished, in which you can eat about 20 “calçots” per person, the second dish arrives. Hands washed and meat at the table: there is never a shortage of “butifarras” (the catalonian sausages), but there can also be different cuts of pork, veal and other sausages. These meats are cooked with the embers that were left after the “calçots” were cooked.
And all well accompanied by local wines or a good cava. Nothing more Catalan than this!
So now you know: if your trip to Barcelona finds you in the dead of winter, don’t forget to make a place on your agenda for some “calçots”: it is not only about eating delicious food, it is also taking part in a tradition that is alive and healthy.
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